Then you flew your Learjet up to Nova Scotia
To see the total eclipse of the sun
Carly Simon/You’re So Vain
There hasn’t been a total solar eclipse in the contiguous United States since Feb. 26, 1979. So today is s a big deal here is the States. The eclipse will be visible along the path that runs from Oregon to South Carolina. There will be many eclipse parties in cities across the U.S. and I hope the clouds stay away.
I briefly thought about driving to Charleston, S.C. to see the eclipse because that’s a fun town any time of the year. But I was fortunate enough to be backpacking across Europe in 1999 when I saw a total solar eclipse in Salzburg, Austria. Anything compared to that would be a let down.
Here’s are two edited journal entries I kept on that trip:
August 11, 1999
Salzburg, Austria
10:04 AM
Big solar eclipse day. But it’s pretty cloudy in Salzburg. It would be nice to see the eclipse, but it was something we learned would happen only after we planed our trip. It would be nice to see, but it’s not the end of the world if we don’t see it. Although some have predicted it would usher in the end of the world.
Yesterday we woke up to a cool downpour. It was nice to sleep with the windows open and feel the cool breeze blow in. It rained most of the day and we had an enjoyable time just walking around the town and going into shops and visiting Mozart’s birth place.
One of the highlights of the trip was that evening. We went up to the fortress for a candlelight dinner and a Mozart concert. It was perfect. Great view of the city from the fortress as well.
August 11, 1999
10:04 PM
On the train between Salzburg and Munich
Wow. We saw it. A total solar eclipse. At about 11:30 AM the moon began to move in front of the sun. It had been cloudy all morning and we weren’t sure we’d get to see the total eclipse. The paper said Salzburg only had a 30% chance of seeing it.
By 12:00 most of the clouds had moved away from the sun. Slowly we watched with ur special sunglasses as the sun continued to be eclipsed. The sun began to look like a crescent moon in reverse.
I was thrilled to see this much since I thought the clouds would block the entire show. Around 12:30 it became apparent that we were going to see the whole thing. Within minutes the sun would be blocked. I’d see pictures before of a full eclipse but I had not thought about what would happen.
There were a group of guys pounding on drums at a fast rhythmic beat. It made the whole event feel like a tribal ritual. People began to holler and cheer. (I don’t think I’d see anything like that since the applause the setting sun received from a crowd gathered on Mallory Square in Key West).
And then it happened.
Like a giant stepping in front of the sun it became dark all around. It got cooler—like 10 or 20 degrees cooler. It was magical. One of the most exhilarating experiences of my life.
I took as many pictures as I could, but I’d be surprised if any of them came out. It got darker than I thought and I do not think I adjusted enough in my exposures. [Note: I was shooting film so you couldn’t just check you shots like you can digitally.] Maybe next time. Nairobi 2001 I think someone said.
But it was really a great place to experience such an event.
Looking back 18 years later I think part of what made my first and only solar eclipse so special is it was we didn’t think we were going to see it. And seeing it in the town where Mozart was born made it even a little more special.
P.S. My photos of the eclipse itself are on slides somewhere, but aren’t great since I only had a 200mm lens. If I had to do it all over again I would embrace my limitations and focus on capturing the atmosphere of the people gathered to watch.